Trang An or Tam Coc? I did both so you don’t have to

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Lady rowing with her feet in Vietnam, Tam Coc, Ninh Binh
I was lucky to spend enough time around the Ninh Binh province to do both, but if you happen to be in Vietnam for limited time and are unsure whether to take the Trang An or Tam Coc boat ride, here’s what you should consider.

Ninh Binh doesn’t get as much hype as Hanoi or Hot An, but it should! To me, Ninh Binh is honestly the closest to what I imagined Vietnam would be ever since I started daydreaming about it many years before finally making it here.

The two boat tours everyone wonders about are Trang An and Tam Coc. I was there too and as I couldn’t decide, I did both. Unfortunately not everyone has the time to do it, so I figured I’ll drop here all info I gathered from this experience.

Me in the Tam Coc boat tour

I know the feeling of wanting to make the best out of your trip and being unsure of which route to take. I have been there over and over again. My purpose here is to save you some time and help you make a better decision.

First of all, consider that there is no one best choice that fits all, but there is one best choice for you, depending on what you’re looking for. No worries, here’s all the info you need to decide.

Both, Trang An and Tam Coc routes are beautiful and more than enough to have an unforgettable experience. Although, there are some key differences that may incline you towards one over the other. I’m here to help you figure it out.

My name is Danitza, a “slowmad” and photographer who has been slow-traveling for over four years now. Welcome to my travel blog! Here, you’ll find valuable info about the places I have visited and stories about my journey towards finding work-life balance while maintaining a nomadic-travel lifestyle.

Let me take you through a journey across Trang An and Tam Coc, illustrated with photos I took during my trip. Let’s start!

Trang An vs Tam Coc comparison table

Trang An and Tam Coc are about 25 minutes apart, they cost roughly the same and they look kind of similar in photos. But if you spend a few hours on each one you realize they’re different experiences. Each has its own pace, scenery and general energy.

I literally did both back to back on the same trip, so you don’t have to guess. Here’s a quick comparison table to start and I’ll talk about details further on!

🌾 Trang An 🌾 Tam Coc
Price ~250,000 VND (~$10) ~250,000 VND (~$10)
Duration 2.5–3.5 hours 1.5–2 hours
Routes 4 route options, each with different caves and temples. More variety, longer and more structured One set route along the Ngo Dong River through three caves, straightforward
Scenery Caves, ancient temples, varied river landscapes, constantly changing throughout the tour Open rice fields surrounded by limestone karsts
Foot Rowing No, rowers use their hands in the traditional way Yes, local rowers navigate using their feet while seated
Vendors on the Water No, the experience is clean and uninterrupted Yes, local vendors approach boats mid-tour selling snacks and souvenirs
Crowds Generally well-managed Can get really busy
Booking Buy tickets at the entrance counter Buy at Dinh Cac Wharf on arrival
Vibe Immersive, structured, UNESCO World Heritage Site Scenic, relaxed, more open
Best for Travelers who want a longer and more varied experience, cave lovers Rice field scenery, shorter visits, cultural (feet rowing experience)

Important general information about the Ninh Binh area

Both Tam Coc and Trang an are in the Ninh Binh province.

Vietnamese call this place the inland Ha Long Bay because of the limestone mountains rising over rice fields and lakes instead of the ocean. I think Ninh Binh has something Ha Long Bay doesn’t, and it’s that you can actually explore it slowly. You can hop on a bicycle or a motorbike and drive around. Also the experience of drifting through caves on a small wooden boat is pretty unique.

Hoa Lu, Vietnam's Ancient Capital in the Nihn Binh Province
Hoa Lu gate, Vietnam’s ancient capital in the Nihn Binh province – Photo by Danitza (author)

The “Trang A Landscape Complex” is considered a UNESCO World Heritage site. It encompasses both, Trang An and Tam Coc, as well as the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital and historic site (the capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries).

It got recognized for its natural beauty as well as its deep cultural significant. This dual recognition is actually rare, and it means you’re not just looking at a pretty landscape. Exploration of caves revealed archaeological traces of human activity that goes back for over 30,000 years!

Being recognized by UNESCO means they’ve been awarded the “World Heritage” designation based on strict criteria for their exceptional cultural, historical, and natural significance to humanity.

How to get to Ninh Binh, Trang An and Tam Coc?

Tam Coc boat ride starting point
Tam Coc boat ride starting point – Photo by Danitza (author)

Both Trang An and Tam Coc belong to the Ninh Binh province in northern Vietnam. It’s super easy to get there from Hanoi.

You have a few options:

  • Bus: I used this site to book (12go) and it was very reliable across Asia. It took like 2-3 hours.
  • Train: this is probably the most comfortable option. It takes 2-2.5 hrs. Book in advance. It will drop you right in Ninh Binh tow, from where you need to move to Trang An or Tam Coc.
  • Tour from Hanoi: The easiest option if you only have one day and don’t want to figure out logistics. Here’s a tour that includes transportation and will take you through the main highlights of the area.
  • Motorbike: This is the most adventurous one. If you’re confident riding in Vietnam, the rout from Hanoi is straightforward and my research showed the roads are decent. It should take about 2 hrs.

I’ll talk about how to move around once there in a sec!

Where to stay in Ninh Binh, Tam Coc, or Trang An?

Most travel guides will tell you to choose Ninh Binh. I recommend you skip the city and stay near the river; right in the Tam Coc or Trang An area instead of the Ninh Binh city.

Three main areas to consider

Ninh Binh town: the practical choice. Good connections to Hanoi, more restaurants and amenities, easier to get around. Good if you’re passing by.

Tam Coc: the most popular choice. If you’re looking to be near a variety of restaurants, coffee shops and closer to a more local vibe, then Tam Coc would be for you. You would also be within walking distance to the Tam Coc boat tour starting point.

Trang An: my personal recommendation, and where I stayed for three weeks. Yes, three weeks. To be honest, I initially chose Trang An because I fell in love with the specific guesthouse I found. But I’m SO glad I did. It’s quieter, more local, and surrounded by nature. The downside is that if you don’t know how to ride a motorbike, Trang An will be too far from everything without a taxi.

P.S. If you’re curious my guesthouse was a little family-owned property with a pool and the most amazing view of the limestone formations. They were lovely and they had a restaurant with homemade traditional Vietnamese food. If you want to check it out – this is the one (not a paid recommendation).

Vietnamese woman wearing a traditional hat
Vietnamese woman wearing a traditional hat – Photo by Danitza (author)

How to move around Trang An or Tam Coc in Ninh Binh?

The way to go is definitely renting a motorbike. I can’t describe how incredible it felt to ride around this area admiring nature and exploring the surrounding areas. However, I must confess I’m a passenger princess and I was scared to drive in South East Asia. I never had to, since I traveled with my boyfriend. He happily drove for the both of us despite my anxiety on the road 😬.

The price of transportation in Vietnam is very low. We probably paid between 100,000 and 150,000 dong (yup, that’s the name of their currency) per day for the motorbike ($3-$6 USD!!)

But if a motorbike is not for you, then you can consider a bicycle or even using Grab. Grab is the “Uber” of South East Asia where you will not only get car rides but also can hop on the back of a motorcycle with an experienced local driver. Please never forget to wear a helmet.

Despite the transportation you choose, I highly recommend taking a morning of your trip to bike around Trang An. It was an adventure to explore the little roads that lead you to wonderful sights. This was one of the most unforgettable moments I had here.

Everything about the Trang An experience

The Trang An boat ride offers a more immersive natural experience than Tam Coc. You can choose between a combination of caves and temples surrounded by amazing rock formations that are very unique to this part of the world. You can actually hop off the boat temporarily to explore a few of these temples.

"Floating Pagoda" in Trang An
“Floating Pagoda” in Trang An – Photo by Danitza (author)

Details about Trang An

I have read some articles suggesting not to do the Trang An boat ride because they consider it more “artificial”. To be honest I don’t understand where that comes from.

The whole ticketing and entering process is definitely more put together than in Tam Coc but that doesn’t make it fake. Once you’re on the boat you’re surrounded by nature. This can be one of the calmest, most beautiful rowing trips you will ever have.

They offer three different routes. This article is based on the experience I had by choosing #3. The reason we chose this one over the other routes is that the first one seemed overly packed with caves, the second one was the shortest and the third one had a perfect balance of caves and temples while spending as much time as possible enjoying the ride. Although it included fewer caves it did include the “Trang An longest cave” which is about 1 km long.

Each boat can accommodate up to 4 people + the guide/rower; we were just 2 so we had to wait for a couple that wanted to do the same route as us to start our ride. It took no more than two minutes to find the people to share the boat with and start our trip.

How does it feel to be in the Trang An boat tour?

The boat pushed away from the dock and the world got slower. We entered the river and were surrounded by cliffs rising on both sides. As we continued, the river narrowed and the cliffs got closer and closer.

Inside of a cave in Trang An
Inside of a cave in Trang An – Photo by Danitza (author)

Suddenly, a dark opening appeared in the rock, and we found ourselves inside of the first cave.

The caves are very different to the exterior. It’s cool, dark, and you can hear the sound of water dripping. The boat slowly moves through passages that sometimes are so low you could touch them. Then, you emerge back into daylight and the contrast hits you every time.

What makes Trang A different from Tam Coc is the variety. You’re not just floating through one landscape, you’re moving through the changing river, caves, hidden valleys, and temple stops.

What’s the best time for the Trang A boat ride?

We happened to take one of the last boats so the whole area was pretty much for ourselves. There were barely any other boats around us, and although I’m sure it was related to the time of the day we chose, it also is worth considering that Trang An is often less crowded than Tam Coc. Whatever it was, the serenity and peacefulness of this trip was unbeatable.

I recommend Sunset time for the Trang An boat ride

The sunset time was just perfect to enjoy this trip without getting burned by the sun. As a photographer, it was an interesting time to do it because we got to experience different light moments. While the sun was coming down plus “the golden hour”, those yellowy-orangy rays you get before the sun fully sets. It’s golden, it’s dramatic, it’s amazinggg.

The major downside of the Trang An trip vs Tam Coc

A big consideration is that traditional foot-rowing is not allowed in Trang An, so if that alone is a reason for you to reconsider, then read more about Tam Coc below.

Everything about the Tam Coc experience

Tam Coc felt like a more “authentic” experience than Trang An, not because this last one is artificial but because Tam Coc has a more “rustic” feel. It’s a bit less organized and more “hop on a random boat and see what happens” kind of vibe.

Boats in Tam Coc
Boats in Tam Coc – Photo by Danitza (author)

Details about Tam Coc

If you’re staying in Tam Coc you can basically arrive to the pier walking. You make a line, purchase your ticket and hop in one of the boats. More details on this process below.

The best time to visit is May to June when the rice fields are at peak green. In September and October the view is more golden than green.

How does it feel to be in the Tam Coc boat tour?

My first impression was that the surroundings are more open than Trang An. There’s a lot more space between you and the limestone formations; it has a very different panoramic view, a bit more distant and wider.

It feels like you’re looking at it from the outside even though you’re right in the middle. The nature is still incredible and you get to see more of the villages, rice fields, and local people rowing and selling stuff like flowers or souvenirs.

Tam Coc boat ride in Ninh Binh Vietnam
Tam Coc boat ride in Ninh Binh Vietnam – Photo by Danitza (author)

Local Merchants in Tam Coc

I have read about people struggling with local merchants but I have to say that this was not my experience at all. Few people did approach us to show their products but were not pushy or intense about it even when we declined to purchase. I see it as part of the character of the place.

Foot Rowing in Tam Coc

Traditional foot rowing in Tam Coc, Vietnam
Traditional foot rowing in Tam Coc, Vietnam – Photo by Danitza (author)

There is one thing that makes Tam Coc extremely special and in my opinion, it’s precisely the local people rowing around… with their feet.

You will not see this in Trang An since it’s apparently not allowed to do it there. I believe this is a wonderful thing to experience and it’s definitely a major reason to choose Tam Coc.

Ultimately, if you’re more interested in nature than traditional rowing, then Trang A may be the way to go. You can still walk around the Tam Coc river area and most likely see the people rowing with their feet anyway – I’ll give you some advice on this in a sec!

Quick list of differences

Reasons to choose Trang An:

  • Trang An offers a more immersive experience in my opinion, it’s less wide therefore you get to see the rock formations from closer and the stillness/clearness of the water is surreal.
  • It’s way more organized and with different routes to choose from that include a variety of temples and caves.
  • You get to hop off the boat to explore some temples if you want to.
  • It’s a bit further from the center therefore less crowded and there aren’t local merchants rowing around so you may get a more serene experience.
  • In my opinion, you get a more impressive view of the natural environment.

Reasons to choose Tam Coc:

  • It’s easier to get to if you’re staying in the Tam Coc area. You can probably just walk from your hostel or guest house or take a super-quick motorbike ride to get to the start point.
  • It may feel more authentic to some people due to the less put-togetherness and the presence of more local stuff and people around the area.
  • You’ll see the traditional feet-rowing which makes it super special.
  • It’s a shorter trip so if you’re in a hurry you may prefer to do this and explore more of the surroundings of Ninh Binh instead of spending too much time on the boat (other suggested activities below).

What would I choose knowing what I know now: Trang An or Tam Coc?

As I said before, they’re both impressive. Ultimately, this whole article is about which one to choose so knowing what I know now, here’s what I would do if my time around Ninh Binh was not enough to do both:

I would choose Trang An.

Vietnam ninh binh rural area, trang an boat ride views
Trang An boat ride views – Photo by Danitza (author)

The view of the natural surroundings and the immersive experience definitely made a huge impact on me. I am a digital nomad who has traveled to 25+ countries and Trang An has been one of the most beautiful sceneries I’ve had the opportunity to see. I can even say I liked it more than Ha Long Bay (I took the overnight cruise tour).

Although…

You don’t need to miss out on the Tam Coc experience if you chose the Trang An boat ride

The foot-rowing they do in Tam Coc is totally worth viewing. I would go check it out at least from the river/starting point area. There are so many cute coffee shops with a view of the water. You can sit and just admire the people rowing around. Here’s one I liked, but you can choose any place around the area (not a paid recommendation).

Additionally, you can do the Hang Mua hike for that “aerial” view of Tam Coc you get when you google it. This is the postcard picture of Ninh Binh and you can actually see it from there. Consider you must be in decent-enough physical condition for the hike, but you don’t need to be a triathlete. If you’re fine with stairs you can totally make it to the top in about 15-20 mins, and the view of the Tam Coc river is stunning. 

Ninh Binh Tam Coc Vietnam Boat Ride View from Mua Cave
Ninh Binh Tam Coc Vietnam Boat Ride View from Mua Cave

How to book the the Tam Coc or Trang An Boat Tours

For both it was actually pretty easy and straight forward. I didn’t plan in advance and literally showed up the day of to buy the ticket right before entering. I have heard that depending on the season it may not be like that for Tam Coc.

Trang An boat tour booking process

You can buy your tickets at the entry point. Tickets are around 300,000 VND per person (like $10 USD), and each boat fits up to four passengers plus the rower. As I mentioned before, you may have to wait to be paired with other travelers to fit the boat or you could potentially buy the four seats for a more private experience.

The ticket office is basically first come first serve.

Don’t stress too much over the route, just choose the one that aligns more with the experience you want to have, more or less caves, or something more balanced. As I mentioned before, number 3 felt more balanced to me so that’s what I did.

Tam Coc boat tour booking process

The line here was a bit longer but nothing unbearable. You can buy your tickets directly at the Van Lam pier but, as I mentioned before, depending on the season, lines may get too long. So you can book a tour in advance to secure your access.

Practical Tips and FAQ’s

A few things worth knowing before you go

What’s the best time to visit Ninh Binh?

Both, the Trang An and Tam Coc boat tours run year round but the experience can change depending on the season. May to June is peak green season so the rice fields are at their most vivid. September to October brings harvest season so it’s golden instead of green. Avoid major Vietnamese holidays if you’re not a crowd lover (who is?)

Should you tip your rower in Trang An or Tam Coc?

It’s not required but tips are always appreciated. They spend hours rowing you so a tip can go a long way.

Can you do both Trang An and Tam Coc boat tours in one day?

Yes, they’re not too far from each other and the tours are between 1.5 to 3.5 hrs each. Doable if you start early, but it’s a full day. If you have several days it’s more enjoyable to split them.

Is Trang An or Tam Coc worth it if you’ve done Ha Long Bay?

Absolutely! They’re often compared because of the limestone formations but they’re not the same.

Do I need to book in advance my Trang An or Tam Coc boat tour?

Generally no, but in peak season, for Tam Coc, look for a tour like this one just to be sure.

What to bring to your Trang An or Tam Coc boat tour

Item Why
💵 Cash (VND) Tickets could be cash only at the counter
🧴 Sunscreen + Hat or Umbrella You’re on open water for 2–3 hours with no shade on the river stretches!
👕 Light layer It can get chilly inside the caves. Also useful if visiting temples where covered shoulders are required.
👟 Closed shoes Getting in and out of the boat can be wobbly, flip flops are not ideal
🦟 Bug repellent Especially for the early morning or sunset slots when mosquitoes are most active near the water
🎒 Small dry bag For camera, passport, anything you don’t want getting wet in the caves
💧 Water bottle There are restaurants at both entry spots but nothing once you’re on the water, bring your own
📷 Camera If you’re like me you won’t want to leave your camera behind for this one

Other things to do in Ninh Binh

In my 90 days traveling around Vietnam, the Ninh Binh surroundings were some of the most special spots I’ve seen, not only in Vietnam, but the world.

Hang Mua

As I mentioned above, the Hang Mua cave is one of the must-do’s in my opinion. The view from here is the postcard image from Ninh Binh you get when you google it.

Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh – Photo by Danitza

Hoa Lu is a whole region. To get to the “entrance gate” go here. You’ll find several temples (pagodas) and historic information about the time Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam.

Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda is a huge Buddhist complex with several pagodas, Buddha statues, and the tallest stupa in Asia (which has a beautiful view). It’s free entrance but you will need to use their cart service to move around which is like 60,000 VND. It does have a “tourist attraction vibe”, but in my experience, that was easily brushed away by the beautiful religious temples, grand statues, and surrounding nature. We didn’t take a guide, we just freestyle-explored the area.

Bike ride around Trang An

If you want a magical little experience, rent a bike and ride around this area. Get lost admiring the surroundings; you can even bring a blanket, a beer, and have a mini picnic with a view like we did.

Thung Nham Bird Valley

The Thung Nham Bird Valley is a cool spot to explore if you have extra time and like touristy insta-spots. I did enjoy my time here a lot. Consider it is extremely crafted for “pics” and tourists. Not so much a natural sanctuary, it was more a natural “park” with several human-designed environments. The birds are not all around as I expected, you have to take a specific boat ride to see them which is included with the entry fee. The cost is 150,000 VND.

Or browse Get Your Guide tours

I hope this information helps, and if you have any travel-related questions, feel free to contact me on Instagram

I write with sand still in my shoes, edit photos while balancing a camera on my lap in a rickety bus, and chase stories that sometimes make me question my life choices.

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